Smokey Eyes Makeup

I’m planning to work as a portrait photographer and at the same time to create my personal projects, so I couldn’t miss a chance to collaborate with make-up artists. Women tend to want to look beautiful on their photographs and often photoshoots is combined with a makeover, so it might be helpful to have a contact with make-up artists, to have an idea of how are they working and to know speed and quality of their work.

Make-up artist: Alia Begum

I used a speedlight, white umbrella, white/black reflector as a background and two black flags on the sides to add more shadows under the cheekbones. In the begining I used black flag as a background, but in this case I didn’t like how the model’s hair and top are merging. It made her face harsh and standing out too much, while smokey eyes and light coloured lips makeup suggests softness in the look. So I changed the background placing a white reflector behind the model. I didn’t want the background to be white because a bright background would contend softness of the look as well, thus I asked the model to stand in a distance from white reflector.

Original:

a1

2 Detail correction to remove skin imperfections

a2

3 General skin retouching to make it look even healthier

a) surface blur layer

a3

b) high pass layer to bring details back

a4

c) high pass layer blending mode set to hard light

a5

d) mask containing two previous layers applied to skin areas that needed retouching, opacity dropped down to maintain natural look

a6

4 Dodge & Burn: I used a dodge tool to increase highlights in such areas as eyes and lips to make them brighter and a burn tool where I wanted to increase shadows – on the side of the face, under the cheekbone etc. I did it in two layers to have more control over result because I didn’t want to go too far changing the shape of her face.

a)

a7

b)

a8

5 Curves & Levels

a) I applied curves to add more volume

a9

b) and levels to correct the lightest point. I find it easier to do with levels than using curves

a10

c) Then I dropped opacity because I wanted the image to look more natural

a11

6 Background: I decided to alter background colour so that it would better match makeup.

a) first I used a pen tool to select the area which would be affected

a12

b) I selected eyes’ makeup colour and used a brush tool to change the colour and darken the background. Then I dropped opacity down until the background matched desirable tone.

a13

se

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